| My friends Alberto and Elisabeth picked me up | | | | hills into an area where there were no |
| early Saturday morning and dropped me off at | | | | further tourists to be seen. The walk was |
| the Estrella de Oro bus station at 8:45. We | | | | very steep and I had to stop several times in |
| chatted for another little bit until the bus | | | | between climbing stairs to catch my breath. |
| left at 9:15 am. I was riding in a modern, | | | | Sometimes I felt a little unsure whether it |
| air-conditioned bus on the toll highway that | | | | was a smart thing to walk here by myself, but |
| runs from Mexico City all the way to Acapulco | | | | overall it seemed okay. I safely got to the |
| on the Pacific coast. | | | | top of the city were the VW kombis buses with |
| | | | the destination "Panorama" have their final |
| In the next row behind me there was a nice | | | | stop. A young man in a truck delivering water |
| couple from California and we talked all the | | | | offered me a ride, but I declined politely. |
| way. Their daughter is currently studying | | | | Instead I started to walk with a young local |
| Spanish in Cuernavaca and this is the first | | | | woman, who was actually wearing high heels in |
| time that they are traveling by themselves in | | | | extremely unsteady terrain. When I commented |
| about 13 years. They were both having a great | | | | on her footwear she said that the women here |
| time. They had stayed in a Cuernavaca B&B | | | | are used to wearing high-heeled shoes to walk |
| called Casa Vamos which was part of a charity | | | | on the steep cobble-stoned streets. She went |
| organization and all funds from the B&B go to | | | | on to tell me that her husband is currently |
| charitable causes. The husband had spent some | | | | in North Carolina working and that she is |
| time in this area many years ago and knows | | | | finding the separation quite difficult. |
| the area quite well. Both of them speak | | | | |
| Spanish and they decided to go to Taxco for | | | | Well, the asphalted street became a dirt |
| the day. After their visit to Taxco they | | | | path, stray dogs were laying around, and the |
| would be moving on to another beautiful | | | | populated area seemed to come to an end, so |
| destination: the city of Morelia. | | | | to be on the safe side I decided to catch a |
| | | | taxi for the last few hundred meters to one |
| The road from Cuernavaca to Taxco goes | | | | of Taxco's most well-known symbols: the |
| through mountainous terrain and when you turn | | | | Christ statue on top of the mountain. |
| the final corner all of a sudden you see the | | | | |
| historic city of Taxco sprawling up against | | | | A typical VW beetle (all the private taxis |
| the hillsides, with the famous imposing Santa | | | | here are bugs) picked me up, the driver took |
| Prisca Cathedral right in the middle. It is | | | | me up a forest road, completely unpaved, with |
| just an amazing sight, and the 1.5 hour drive | | | | holes, roots, sticks, stones, anything that |
| from Cuernavaca is well worth it. | | | | would make you think that only a sturdy 4x4 |
| | | | could get up here. But sure enough, the |
| The bus arrived right at the Hotel Posada de | | | | trusty little beetle made it all the way up |
| la Mision, my accommodation for the night. | | | | and right at the end, we went over a rock and |
| The Posada de la Mision is one of Taxco's | | | | I could actually feel the floor plate lift as |
| finest hotels and its location, right | | | | we scraped over the rock! |
| opposite the downtown with a fabulous view of | | | | |
| the historic area is truly phenomenal. The | | | | We had finally arrived at the Cristo - a |
| Posada's reservation specialist Fabiola | | | | giant statue of Christ that was erected about |
| Jaimes was so kind to take me on a quick | | | | 4 or 5 years ago. The view from the platform |
| orientation walk around town. We walked on | | | | surrounding the statue is phenomenal. You can |
| one of Taxco's main streets past the | | | | see the entire city of Taxco, with the |
| Ex-Convento right to the Zócalo, the | | | | imposing cathedral in the middle, surrounded |
| location of the Santa Prisca Cathedral. It's | | | | by a panorama of mountains. After absorbing |
| a wonderful walk on cobble-stoned streets, | | | | this wonderful vista, I bought a popsicle and |
| past silver retailers and souvenir shops. | | | | hopped back into the taxi. |
| | | | |
| After a brief visit inside the Santa Prisca | | | | I was already dreading the descent back on |
| Church to marvel at the | | | | the rutty forest road, but my driver drove |
| Churrigeresque-baroque artwork Fabiola took | | | | off in the other direction and to my surprise |
| me past the tianguis (outdoor street market) | | | | there was a nicely paved road on the south |
| where local merchants were selling anything | | | | side of the monument. But my anxiety wasn't |
| from silver goods, handicrafts, pottery items | | | | over yet. The descent into town on extremely |
| to t-shirts and a variety of trinkets. Our | | | | steep, cobble-stoned streets was pretty |
| next destination was the Casa de Humboldt, so | | | | nerve-wrecking. My driver Javier explained |
| called because Alexander von Humboldt, the | | | | that the beetles have special tires for |
| famous Germany scientist, naturalist and | | | | better grip, and that it can get indeed a bit |
| geographer spent one night here in 1803. This | | | | hairy here when it rains. |
| house has a beautiful mudejar-style gateway | | | | |
| and is now the Museo Virreinal, celebrating | | | | At one point we encountered a delivery truck |
| the Viceregal era when Spain still ruled | | | | which had to reverse because the roads are so |
| Mexico and the Catholic Church was dominating | | | | narrow while we had to duck into a side |
| people's minds. | | | | street so the delivery truck could pass. The |
| | | | roads were so steep that a few times I |
| Having admired the various religious | | | | thought we'd just slide down the mountain |
| accessories on display, we continued our walk | | | | into one of the houses beside the road. |
| down the hills, past various additional | | | | |
| street vendors and further down upon arrival | | | | Javier let me off at the Zócalo where I |
| on another main street of Taxco we grabbed | | | | strolled around and looked at the artwork and |
| one of the characteristic VW kombi buses that | | | | handicrafts for sale. An old man selling |
| serve as the local transportation here to get | | | | antique photos started a conversation with |
| back to the Posada Mision. The door is open | | | | me. He told me he has been to Canada and that |
| and 3 benches are built into the back of the | | | | he loved it. He said that even though he |
| bus and people hop on an off as they need. At | | | | wasn't going to sell me anything he still |
| 3.50 pesos (around $0.40) the rides are | | | | enjoyed talking to me. |
| extremely cheap. | | | | |
| | | | I strolled down the hill past the Santa |
| Once back at the hotel I ran into the owners: | | | | Prisca Cathedral, past another craft market |
| Henry and Elena Berger. Henry and I sat down | | | | to a smaller church where I sat down to |
| in the Posada's restaurant while Elena had to | | | | relax. A grandmother was reading to her |
| take care of a number of business-related | | | | grandson from a schoolbook in a very animated |
| things. The Posada's restaurant, by the way, | | | | way. The boy seemed about 6 or 7 years old |
| has huge panorama windows with the perfect | | | | and looked like he was thoroughly enjoying |
| view overlooking down-town Taxco and looking | | | | his grandmother's enthusiasm. |
| right at the Santa Prisca Cathedral. | | | | |
| | | | Then I walked down some steep walkways, and |
| Henry is a very gregarious, outgoing | | | | caught a VW bus back to the Posada Mision. |
| individual in his 60s with a very vibrant | | | | From about 5 to 8 pm I started my |
| energy level and a twinkle in his eye. He | | | | well-deserved rest and read a local |
| shared with me that his family is originally | | | | newspaper. As always I read the job |
| from East Prussia, formerly part of Germany, | | | | advertisements and it seemed that most jobs |
| today part of Russia. His mother migrated | | | | were located in Acapulco and were paying |
| westwards during the last days of the Second | | | | between 2000 and 4500 pesos a month (between |
| World War to escape from the Russians. Henry | | | | C$240 and $500 / month). As the sun was |
| used to work for Volkswagen and has travelled | | | | starting to set I enjoyed the absolutely |
| the world. At 31 he left VW and became | | | | phenomenal view of Taxco and its stunning |
| independent. His entrepreneurial knack came | | | | Cathedral. The mood was almost romantic as |
| through and, today his family owns 3 upscale | | | | the street lights came on and the city |
| hotels in Taxco and several car dealerships | | | | started to twinkle with little lights. |
| throughout the area. Although Henry is a very | | | | |
| successful man, he comes across as very | | | | 8:30 pm rolled around: dinner time at the |
| down-to-earth. He struck me with his humour | | | | Posada's restaurant. I opted for a fish |
| and his great interest in history. During our | | | | fillet with garlic sauce - very tasty. Padre |
| conversation we spoke German all the time. | | | | Neri joined me a half hour later. We had a |
| | | | fascinating conversation about the |
| Padre Neri, a local parish priest, joined us | | | | priesthood, the Catholic church and the dicey |
| for lunch. Henry explained that Padre Neri | | | | issue of celibacy. Padre Neri gave me some |
| had baptized all 4 of Henry' and Elena's sons | | | | examples of what he deals with in terms of |
| and that he comes to the Posada every day to | | | | counselling issues in his community. He |
| eat. The three of us had a delicious lunch: | | | | alluded to the case of a young couple where |
| Henry ordered a round of Mexican appetizers: | | | | the young man had decided he wanted to become |
| tacos, tortillas, guacamole, salsa. Then I | | | | a priest but had fallen in love with a young |
| had a sopa azteca (tortilla soup - one of my | | | | woman. A situation like this would be a |
| favourites), mole verde (made from pumpkin | | | | predicament for anyone. Padre Neri displayed |
| seeds, very similar to Austrian pumpkin seed | | | | some very progressive views and I really |
| oil, another delicacy). One of Henry's son | | | | enjoyed talking to him. |
| runs the hotels, while another one is in | | | | |
| charge of the car dealerships. | | | | Just as we finished our dinner, the Mayor of |
| | | | Taxco and the Head of the Cultural Department |
| With my appetite duly satiated, I was ready | | | | were leaving the restaurant. They said hello |
| for another exploration of Taxco. I strolled | | | | to Padre Neri and introduced themselves to me |
| downtown again on the calle principal, past | | | | as well. It seemed like I had met all the |
| the Silver Miners Monument and upon my | | | | important people in town. |
| arrival at the Zócalo, I sat down on one | | | | |
| of the many benches and just absorbed the | | | | After a nice goodbye with Padre Neri I |
| atmosphere. Families were going for a stroll, | | | | retreated to my room where I relaxed and |
| children were playing, the birds were | | | | watched some TV. I did not pull the curtains |
| singing, the sun was beaming. It doesn't get | | | | because the view outside my hotel balcony was |
| any better than this. | | | | probably one of the most stunning views I |
| | | | have ever seen in my life. Taxco has |
| After my little rest I decided to walk up the | | | | definitely enchanted me. |